I had the same hair pulling experience but finally found the correct answer. I am not sure if you have already what you are looking for but here goes anyway.
In your track list on the left side at the bottom, There is a row of icons for Mute, Solo, Activate All Inserts, and Track View. If you click on the small disclosure icon you can set the standard view for your song. In the image below yousee the world "Tiny" at the bottom, this is where you change the view.